zaterdag 15 november 2008
woensdag 12 november 2008
empire style
Wat in Engeland de stijl van kleding Regency, genoemd werd, heette het in Frankrijk Empire style. Genoemd naar Napoleons (empire) regerings tijd van 1804 tot 1815.
In the Mirror of Graces; or the English Lady's Costume, published in London in 1811, the author ("a Lady of Distinction") advised:
In the morning the arms and bosom must be completely covered to the throat and wrists. From the dinner-hour to the termination of the day, the arms, to a graceful height above the elbow, may be bare; and the neck and shoulders unveiled as far as delicacy will allow.
Morning dresses were worn inside the house. They were high-necked and long-sleeved, covering throat and wrists, and generally plain and devoid of decoration.
Ball gowns, or evening dresses, were often extravagantly trimmed and decorated with lace, ribbons, and netting. They were cut low and sported short sleeves, baring bosoms. Bared arms were covered by long white gloves. Our Lady of Distinction, however, cautions young women from displaying their bosoms beyond the boundaries of decency, saying, "The bosom and shoulders of a very young and fair girl may be displayed without exciting much displeasure or disgust."
A Lady of Distinction also advised young ladies to wear softer shades of color, such as pinks, periwinkle blue, or lilacs. The mature matron could wear fuller colors, such as purple, black, crimson, deep blue, or yellow.
Many women of this era remarked upon how being fully dressed meant the bosom and shoulders were bare, and yet being under-dressed would mean one's neckline went right up to one's chin.
In the Mirror of Graces; or the English Lady's Costume, published in London in 1811, the author ("a Lady of Distinction") advised:
In the morning the arms and bosom must be completely covered to the throat and wrists. From the dinner-hour to the termination of the day, the arms, to a graceful height above the elbow, may be bare; and the neck and shoulders unveiled as far as delicacy will allow.
Morning dresses were worn inside the house. They were high-necked and long-sleeved, covering throat and wrists, and generally plain and devoid of decoration.
Ball gowns, or evening dresses, were often extravagantly trimmed and decorated with lace, ribbons, and netting. They were cut low and sported short sleeves, baring bosoms. Bared arms were covered by long white gloves. Our Lady of Distinction, however, cautions young women from displaying their bosoms beyond the boundaries of decency, saying, "The bosom and shoulders of a very young and fair girl may be displayed without exciting much displeasure or disgust."
A Lady of Distinction also advised young ladies to wear softer shades of color, such as pinks, periwinkle blue, or lilacs. The mature matron could wear fuller colors, such as purple, black, crimson, deep blue, or yellow.
Many women of this era remarked upon how being fully dressed meant the bosom and shoulders were bare, and yet being under-dressed would mean one's neckline went right up to one's chin.
dinsdag 11 november 2008
regency gown
Het Regency tijdperk, ongeveer van 1795 tot 1837. Genoemd naar the Prince Regent, zoon van de heersende king George de 3e, hij had last van gekte vandaar dat zijn zoon regent was. Hij was zeer invloedrijk.
In die tijd heerste Frankrijk over de vrouwen mode. De mode veranderde drastisch. Van korsetten die het lijf reshapete naar grieks achtig jurken.Die de ware vormen van het vrouwelijke lichaam lieten zien.
Het was Marie-Antoinette die het ""chemise a la reine "" weer tot mode maakte.
De jurken werden gemaakt van katoen, zijde, satijn, neteldoek en gaas.
Dat moet in de winter heel koud zijn geweest.Vandaar dat men vaak sjaals en korte jasjes droeg.Na 1820 daalde de middellijn van de jurken en ging men weer korsetten dragen.
doublet
Van de middeleeuwen tot het midden van de 17e eeuw werd de doublet gedragen.Het had vele functies..
bv er zaten ringetjes aan zodat je de broek eraan vast kon maken..het was warm omdat de doublets vaak gevuld waren en van warme stoffen gemaakt..de doublet sloot zich strak rond het lichaam aan en kon gelang de mode reshaped worden.
Tot de 15e eeuw was het de bedoeling om je doublet over een blouse te dragen met er nog overheen bv een mantel of tuniek. Bij sommige beroepen..acteur..sportbeoefenaar..mocht je de doublet als bovenkleding dragen.
De doublets waren vaak gemaakt van ongekleurd canvas en linnen, en de mouwen van gekleurd linnen.Gevuld met wol of katoen.
Later na de 15e eeuw zag je mannen ook doublets op zichzelf dragen..gemaakt van de mooiste stoffen.
http://www.nachtanz.org/SReed/doublets.html
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/fencing_doublet.htm
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