Regency men's fashions

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gaiters

gaiters 1805 (met museum)

The French Marine Gaiters are made from white canvas. It should have a tight weave, but be light enough to be flexible, not stiff. Each gaiter is made from a single thickness of white canvas, with a tongue or foot cover piece added. There are12 small black leather buttons, about 1/2 inch in diameter, on each gaiter. These can be made from a small leather circle with a hole punched in it, or small black metal buttons can be used. The top 5 buttons holes have matching button holes instead of buttons. The buttons of the knee breeches will button through these five button holes.
Ilustration at left shows the gaiters attached to the knee breeches, at the top five button holes, and secured with a small leather strap with a brass buckle, just below the knee. http://www.marinesducontrecoeur.org/uniforms3.html

Gaiters patternTo make the gaiters pattern, for the height, measure your leg from above the shoe heel to above the top breeches button, for the height. For the width, measure the around the widest part of your leg, the calf, and add two inches to this measurement. This will give you the approximate dimensions to the dotted lines on the drawing. Add 1 1/2 inches to the side dimensions, to be folded back and sewn down to double the edges, for the button holes and buttons. Add a 1/2 inch to the top and bottom edges to flat fell these edges.

The tongue, to cover the top of the shoe is a separate piece. You will need four of these, two for each gaiter Sew the tongue pieces together on the curved edge. Turn inside out, fold the straight edges a little, slide the gaiter body between the two pieces of the tongue and sew down.

When completed,the gaiter is the correct height, but too wide around the leg. Put them on, inside out, and tighten them up by pinching up the back. Pin the extra cloth, so the gaiter fits tight. Remove the gaiter, sew up along the pins and cut off the excess cloth. You can flat fell this seam also. You now have tight-fitting gaitors with a seam up the back.

The strap, if you want to use one, is made of canvas or leather. It is sewn to the inside on the the foot and buttons to the bottom button on the outside of the gaiter.

The pattern shown is for the right gaiter, flip the pattern over to make the left gaitor. You can also fold your canvas and cut two pieces. That way you will have a right and a left gaiter.

vanity fair dress

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neckcloth - cravat

neckcloth

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cravat
The cravat originated in the 1630s; like most men's fashions between the 17th century and World War I, it was of military origin. In the reign of Louis XIII of France, Croatian mercenaries ^[2] were enlisted into a regiment supporting the King and Cardinal Richelieu against the Duc de Guise and the Queen Mother, Marie de Medici. The traditional Croat military kit aroused Parisian curiosity about the unusual, picturesque scarves distinctively knotted at the Croats' necks; the cloths that were used, ranged from the coarse cloths of enlisted soldiers, to the fine linens and silks of the officers. The sartorial word "cravat" derives from the French "cravate," a corrupt French pronunciation of "Croat" — in Croatian, "Hrvat".
Considering the interdependence of many European regions (particularly the French) with the Venetian Republic, which occupied most of Croatia's coast, and the word's uncertain philologic origin, the new male neckdress was known as a cravate. The French readily switched from old-fashioned starched linen ruffs to the new loose linen and muslin cravates; the military styles often had broad, laced edges, while a gentleman's cravat could be of fine lace. As an extreme example of the style, the sculptor Grinling Gibbons carved a realistic cravat in white limewood which is now on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
On returning to England from exile in 1660, Charles II imported with him the latest new word in fashion: "A cravatte is another kind of adornment for the neck being nothing else but a long towel put about the Collar, and so tyed before with a Bow Knott; this is the original of all such Wearings; but now by the Art and Inventions of the seamsters, there is so many new ways of making them, that it would be a task to name, much more to describe them". (Randle Holme, Academy of Armory and Blazon, 1688.)
During the wars of Louis XIV of 1689–1697, except for court, the flowing cravat was replaced with the more current and equally military "Steinkirk", named after the Battle of Steenkerque in 1692. The Steinkirk was a long, narrow, plain or lightly trimmed neckcloth worn with military dress, wrapped once about the neck in a loose knot, with the lace of fringed ends twisted together and tucked out of the way into a button-hole, either of the coat or the waistcoat. The steinkirk was popular with men and women until the 1720s.
The maccaronis reintroduced the flowing cravat in the 1770s, and the manner of a man's knotting it became indicative of his taste and style, to the extent that after the Battle of Waterloo (1815) the cravat, itself, was referred to as a "tie".

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