The dress is fashioned from ivory silk shantung brocaded with small Neo-classical motifs of metallic silver. The front neckline is bordered with matching metallic trim.Judging from the construction of the dress, I believe it was made in America from imported fabric for a young lady of means (one of the Lincoln descendents). Metallic textiles, very expensive at the time, were found in the wardrobes of wealthy people
The dress is completely hand stitched and has a linen under bodice in back. The fullness of the bodice and sleeves is adjustable with drawstring ties. The dress closes in back at the neckline with ties and at the empire waist with a hook.