zaterdag 5 september 2009

victorian reception gown 1888

The bodice is very tailored and curvy, with a form-fitted, fully boned (whalebone) interior in the corset style with cane buscs near the hand sewn holes (has the original twisted metal ties with brass enders). The sleeves have small poufs at the shoulders, leading down to cuffed and "V" contrasted 3/4 sleeves (looks almost like an 1870's application here, but this dress has never been remade) and frothy, ornately flowered Brussels needle lace with 3" scallops! The gathered lace neckline is just stunning. There is more of the fabulous Brussels lace lines the square neck in a wide swath that is adjustable and gathered to stand delicately at the back of the neck, with a covert row of the lace underneath for modesty- as this bodice was made for a busty, curvy woman who wanted to hint at cleavage (two rows of long, original ivory silk grograin ties make it adjustable). A double row of large "yo-yo" spoke appliques that look like tatted spider's webs in the centers are made of thick, gleaming silver gilt thread (you can smell the silver in it- unmistakable). There's an enormous amount of these wonderful appliques double lining both sides of the front of the bodice, around the neck and repeatedly down the skirt side and front. Must have cost a fortune at the time to have all of those hand made! Finely piped only at the waist bottom. The inside is neatly tailored of ivory silk surrah twill, heavy, but soft silk taffeta lines the bones, there's a sturdy silk moire' petersham around the waist, and all the edges have been firmly and deftly overcast. Also, another hook enclosure (with all complete brass hooks and eyes) to make sure the bodice doesn't ride.

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