a busk

In Holland you can order busks at http://www.enterharmony.nl/
Stays from the first part of the 19th century often had a wide, vertical center slot in which a long, straight busk made out of wood, ivory or whalebone (often highly decorated with cavings or poems) which could be inserted into the center slot for support. Busks were not always worn and could be removed easily according to your activity. Generally busks were worn for formal or evening functions and taken out for leisure. http://www.antiquecorsetgallery.com/article.php?article=28
This wooden new busk you can order at http://www.mantua-maker.com/catalog.html

A busk (also spelled busque) is the rigid element of a corset placed at the centre front.

In stays, the corsets worn between the fifteenth and eighteenth centuries, the busk was intended to keep the front of the corset straight and upright. It was made of wood, ivory, or bone slipped into a pocket and tied in place with a lace called the busk point. These busks were often carved and decorated, or inscribed with messages, and were popular gifts from men to their sweethearts.

In the middle of the nineteenth century, a new form of busk appeared. It was made of two long pieces of steel, one with loops and the other with posts, that functioned in the same way as hook and eye fastenings on a garment [1]. This made corsets considerably easier to put on and take off, as the laces did not have to be loosened as much as when the corset had to go over the wearer's head and shoulders. The second half of the nineteenth century also saw the invention of the spoon busk.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buska baleen busk from 1780 http://www.antiquedress.com/

a wooden busk from the early 19th century http://www.antiquedress.com/

a crochet cloche tutorial

cloche hat

The cloche hat is a fitted, bell-shaped hat that was popular during the 1920s.^[1] (Cloche is the French word for bell.) Caroline Reboux is the creator of the cloche hat.
Cloche hats were usually made of felt so that they conformed to the head.^[1] The hat was typically designed to be worn low on the forehead, with the wearer's eyes only slightly below the brim.^[1] By 1928-1929, it became fashionable to turn the brims on cloche hats upwards. This style remained prevalent throughout the early 1930s until the cloche hat became obsolete around 1933-1934.

Often, different styles of ribbons affixed to the hats indicated different messages about the wearer. Several popular messages included: An arrow-like ribbon which indicated a girl was single but had already given her heart to someone, a firm knot which signaled marriage or a flamboyant bow which indicated the wearer was single and interested in mingling.^[2]
Cloche hats' popularity and influence were overwhelming. Couture houses like Lanvin and Molyneux opened ateliers to join milliners in manufacturing the hats.^[1] The hats even shaped hairstyles: the Eton crop (the short, slicked-down cut worn by Josephine Baker) became popular because it was ideal to showcase the hats' shape.^[1]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloche_hatA straw cloche 1920 http://www.1860-1960.com/

A velvet cloche 1920
A cloche from 1920 , straw with embroiderie

a cording recipe from elizabethancostume.net

RECIPE FOR A CORDED PETTICOAT

Authentinote: These instructions are for an 19th century corded petticoat. It is a good method for achieving the full look of 16th century skirts, but there is currently no hard evidence that corded petticoats were used in the 16th century.

Ingredients: 3 yards 45" wide medium-weight cotton or linen fabric 95 yards of #16 cotton cord 1 large spool (1000 meters) thread 3 yards 1/4" manila hemp rope 2 yards bias tape (optional) 2 buttons Liquid starch Water

Equipment: Yardstick Scissors Sewing machine Zipper foot Hand sewing needles Pins Ironing Board Iron Pump Spray bottle

These instructions are taken from a posting to the Compuserve History Forum, and are actually for a 19th century corded petticoat; corded petticoats come in handy just as much under 16th century dress, however. They help your skirts stand out, look very sharp, and are period. The above drawing of a spanish woman in a rope-stiffened farthingale, created in 1545, depicts a skirt similar to that which these instructions create--only with a larger size of cord in the welts, and a wider space between them.

If you use a larger size of cord when making the below petticoat, make sure to cut the original pieces of fabric longer than the 48" specified below--55" or more will be necessary to accomodate all of the tucks necessary. the 48" below makes a petticoat that will fit a woman 5'8" or so; if you are taller or shorter, you may want to sew a strip onto the bottom after all of the tucks are made to make it longer, or cut some fabric off of the top after the tucks are made to make it shorter.

You may find it useful to read Lisa's Tips for Making a Corded Petticoat; she has tried this recipe and has several good suggestions and observations.

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cordpett.html

cording tutorial

http://wearinghistory.blogspot.com/2009/01/corded-petticoat.html
In the "Era of the Hoop", not all women wore cage or covered crinolines at all times, for both economic and practical reasons. When doing farm or household chores, evidence suggests that some women opted simply to wear a few layers of petticoats or revert to the pre-crinoline era corded petticoat to support their skirts. For a poorer woman, regular petticoats or a homemade corded petticoat might be the only option within her economic reach. http://home.comcast.net/~lynnegaither/index.html
http://www.jennylafleur.com/study/boning.htm shows us a few project using hemp cord.
At http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/cording/cord.html you can find a tutorial about using hemp cord.!!!!!!! instead of boning.
http://www.geocities.com/secondvirginia/bonnet.htm

http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/corded_corset.html

bustle wedding gown 1875

http://www.antiquedress.com

bustle dress 1876-1880

The three piece outfit, made from sea foam green silk taffeta, consists of a fitted basque (a long close-fitting bodice), an under skirt, and an elaborately draped over skirt. The long trained skirt swished elegantly when the lady walked. Of course it was totally impractical, trailing on the ground in the dirt, but it made a dramatic statement.

The basque closes in front with thread-covered buttons, and they are all intact. The hem of the basque is bordered with ruched trim. The cuffs have pleated trim and fringed bows. The ruching, pleating, and bows are all repeated on the fabulous skirt. The collar and cuffs are trimmed with beige lace ruffles.

The bodice is lined with brown cotton twill. The long front darts are boned. The underskirt is lined with brown polished cotton. It has elastic bands in back on the inside in order to hold the puffs in the correct position. The elastic, which has lost most of its give, can be tightened. The overskirt is unlined. Both skirts close in back with hooks at the waist. http://vintagetextile.com

bustle dress 1885

The delightful walking ensemble has three pieces: a fitted basque, an underskirt, and a draped over skirt. The ensemble is made from cream colored wool woven with satin stripes of royal blue and emerald green.

The dress is trimmed with bands, bows of emerald green satin, and matching green knotted silk fringe. The collar is also emerald green satin. The color is as fresh and pretty today as when the dress was new.

The basque is fitted closely to the body with princess line seams in back and long diagonal bust darts in front. The peplum is pointed in both the front and back. The polonaise style over skirt is pulled up with satin tabs

The bodice is lined with cream colored cotton sateen. It has inside tabs that close with hooks at the waist. The underskirt is lined with cream colored polished cotton and has a set-in pocket in one of the side seams.

The over skirt is lined with cream colored buckram that adds stiffening to the draped shape. The under skirt closes in front with hooks at the waist. The over skirt closes on the side with a hook at the waist. http://vintagetextile.com

timely tresses

ooooh my god!!!..i just discovered..Timely Tresses..its all about Historic Millinery from the Regency through Civil War Eras. Theve got patterns and kits, straw forms, ties and trims, hair dressing. But also they tell us a lot about the history!!!!!! I love it!!!!!!! http://www.timelytresses.com/
Patterns
a comb
Millinery flowers and berries

riding habit

As you could read i bought a pattern from Butterick (at the back site they tell me that it is a womans early 20th century dress)..but ..is it than a victorian dress..like these ones???
http://www.agelesspatterns.com/index.htm what do you think???..please respond to me..because..i also would make an undergarment and corset..

butterick B4954

Yesterday i bought this pattern from http://www.naaipatronen.nl/ . Instead of the bleu fabric they using here i ordered..fantastic apple green cotton (the skirt) and apple green corduroy for the jacket. I want to make a costume ..verry colored like the dresses from Nanny mcPhee.

Like this one..apple green with pink..so i only have to find pink lace and ribbon.